So why is the Gurudwara here' The question provokes a mild rebuke from Bhai Piara Singh.

'This was founded by Guru Nanak, our founder, and it's our sacred duty to maintain the temple no matter whether anybody comes here or not."

The real devotees are few and far between - usually temporary residents or visitors like Mr Khalsa.

Rabindar Singh Bawa, a senior executive with the American oil company Occidental, has been coming to the langar for two years.

'I find it immensely soothing when I attend the langar", he said smiling.

But most of those who come every week - there are between 150 and 400 of them - are Muslims.

Local people say that the Muslims are mainly from poor families. They attend the langar primarily for the free food that is offered after the weekly prayer.