The famous Maryam Zamani Mosque in Lahore is losing its beauty because water seeping in through the mosque’s roof is spoiling its stunning frescos, which are peeling off, sources in the Federal Archaeology Department (FAD) told weekly Pulse.

They said the mosque fell in FAD’s northern circle jurisdiction and that every year about Rs1.6 million were allocated to repair historical monuments in the northern circle. Sources said the mosque needed urgent repair before its frescos were destroyed.

They said the monsoon season had intensified seepage through the roof because of rains.

The mosque is made of brick and plaster and its architecture represents a transition between the Lodhi and Mughal eras. Mughal Emperor Jehangir built the mosque in the 16th century, with his mother Maryam Zamani supporting the project. This is why the mosque is called Maryam Zamani or Begum Shahi.

Sources said historians claimed that the mosque’s colour scheme was unrivalled by any other Mughal structure in the city. They said that if archaeologists did not act quickly and stop builders from encroaching upon around the mosque, its beauty would be lost. Sources said the mosque was protected and no other structure could be built within a 200-foot radius of it.

Ranjit Singh used the mosque to manufacture weapons and gunpowder. The British were the first to pay attention to the mosque, and in 1850 Lahore Deputy Commissioner Maj McGregor ordered for the mosque to be used as a worship place only.

Sources said historians claimed that a tunnel ran under the mosque to Delhi in the 16th century. The mosque is located in front of the Masti or Masjidi gate of the Lahore Fort across the road.

This brick structure is celebrated for two very important features: the double domes with which the prayer chamber is crowned, and the exquisite fresco paintings on the interior surface. The mosque covers an area of 135.5 by 127.5 feet.

It has two entrances through deeply recessed arched gateways on the northern and eastern sides. A flight of four steps in each gateway leads downward to the main courtyard, measuring 123 by 83 feet. The courtyard was originally enclosed by cloisters consisting of rows of cells on the northern and southern sides, some portions of which still exists. On the eastern side along the gate is a 17-foot-wide platform, on which stands an enclosure consisting of an octagonal domed tomb and some other modern graves.

In the center of the courtyard is a tank for ablutions, now much repaired. A modern roof of reinforced cement concrete supported by two rows of round pillars partially covers the tank. The courtyard must have been paved with brick tiles in usual Mughal fashion, but it has now been completely relaid in modern brick. On the northwest and southwest corners beside the prayer chamber are the old staircases leading to the roof. Similar staircases on the northeast and southeast corners led to the roof of the cells. Only traces are left now.

The prayer chamber of the mosque is an oblong structure measuring internally 130.5 feet from south to north and 34 feet from east to west. It has five compartments divided by heavy engaged arches supported by massive jambs and surmounted by high domes. The central double dome is the highest, placed on a high, round neck. The double dome consists of two shells, the inner one being of stucco. A wooden frame connects the two shells for reinforcement. The outer shell (3.5 feet thick) has a small arched opening to the west. The front openings of the chambers, five in number, possess four central arches, the central one being the highest, with a high parapet and a projected frame. The whole outer surface of the front has been treated with thick lime plaster, creating decorative arched panels in recess.

Inside the prayer chamber, there is a series of high, deep arched recesses set in all five compartments on the west. The central Mihrab has an engrailed arch treated specially with profuse stucco ornaments which are geometric, floral, and inscriptional. The half-domed niche of the central arched opening and the Mihrab has been filled with low stalactites. The remaining four compartments have the same engrailed arch treatment, though comparatively smaller and less decorative.

At the four corners of the prayer chamber are placed small, square pavilions with four arched openings surrounded by cupolas placed on octagonal drums. Originally, the cupolas were crowned with a low cresting and finials, like the five bigger domes over the main prayer chamber. These have now considerably decayed.

The mosque stands out for its unique fresco decoration, with which the whole interior surface of the prayer chamber is replete. The paintings are unrivalled for their delicacy, liveliness, perfection of technique, and variety of subject. The endless variety of geometric, floral, and inscriptional designs spread over the interior surface in a subtle colour scheme is not seen elsewhere. The surface has been divided into various panels of different shapes and dimensions according to the space available, and all the soffits, niches, squinches, arches, dome interiors, and apex are covered with these paintings

The squinches have been provided with low stalactites painted with small flower twigs, while the adjoining areas are divided into arched panels which have bold interwoven floral patterns. Some of the borders of the panels have geometric schemes of decoration. The patterns have been mainly created by carving slightly incised lines in white. The interior of the dome has similarly been divided into honeycombed geometric patterns, filled with delicate floral tracery. The small space in between is filled elegantly with stars which bear some of the attributes of Allah done in Naskh characters.

The superb combination of colours is also noteworthy. Shades of green, ochre, red, blue, yellow, and black have been used with subtlety. The mosque possesses several inscriptions, both Quranic and non-Quranic, executed exclusively in plaster in high and bold relief, a characteristic first met with here among the historic Mughal monuments of Lahore. Among the non-Quranic inscriptions, the two executed over the arches of the two entrance gates and one executed on the high facade of the prayer chamber are important, as they record the name of the founder and the date of completion of the mosque. The inscriptions on the entrance gates are in Nastaliq characters, and that on the facade of the prayer chamber in Naskh-Suls.